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Saturday, 8 March 2014

You gotta break a few eggs...

Week one was over in the blink of an eye yesterday, but we crammed it full of fun in true Friday style. It felt good to be back in whites after a few days in the classroom, and I was even secretly pleased to feel the familiar sensation of being far too hot that comes with working in a commercial kitchen. 

My dough baby ready for it's first proving
We started today by making white bread rolls. I have a little experience of making bread before (not that you can really tell from today's results!) but haven't actually made small rolls from scratch, dealing instead with large loaves for a restaurant I used to work for. We started with salt in the bottom of the bowl so that it wouldn't touch the yeast and kill it off, before sieving strong white flour on top. After warming milk to blood heat we used it to 'dissolve' and activate the live yeast yeast and caster sugar in a bowl, adding a little olive oil before adding about half of this to the flour mix and lightly mixing with one 'claw' hand in order to keep as much air in the mixture as possible. We had to knead our dough for 10 minutes by stretching it away from us and rolling it back in towards us repeatedly. I even managed to work the glutens in the dough enough to stretch a piece of it into a transparent skin, which I've not taken the time to do before. The dough was then brought back together into a smooth ball and left in a lightly greased bowl covered in clingfilm in a warm place for an hour to prove.

Meanwhile, we learned about chicken stock, which for me included some key tips.
  1. Do not cook stock above a simmer, as anything more vigorous risks breaking down proteins and emulsifying the fat into the stock to make it cloudy.
  2. A decent stock has a good amount of bones in it - one chicken carcass is only really enough for a couple of sauces or one soup.
  3. Chicken stock needs 3-4 hours minimum. It can be reduced right down to an essence and made back up to stock with water, much like certain popular pots of stock on sale. It is only good for this for up to a week however.
Then we made chocolate pots. We used untempered 70% cocoa chocolate, which can be bought online or in specialist shops and is not glossy like the bars we are used to, nor does it 'snap' when you break it. We heated double cream up to scalding, when you can see steam rising from it, and then whisked in chocolate drops little by little. Olive oil was then added to make the mixture smooth, with a nice mouthfeel, and a pinch of salt to bring out the chocolate flavour. This was poured into ramekins and chilled while we made mini piping bags from greaseproof paper, filled them with a little melted chocolate and created decorations for our pots. 

My dough baby, all grown up and ready to roll!
Back to our rolls. It was now time to 'knock back' the dough, which had doubled in size and even had bubbles! Knocking back means re-kneading the dough to pause the rising process, shaping it and leaving it to prove again. We made six rolls and had the option of adding an egg wash or leaving them 'au naturel', so I did a variety, and also added a variety of different seeds. Cutting slashes into the dough at this stage means they will prove with the cuts and bake with well defined, and quite sharp, textures in the top, whereas alternatively the dough can be cut with a knife or even scissors just before baking, which gives a softer edge. 
Plain (non-egg washed) rolls at the front.
Once the rolls were ready on their baking tray, they were covered with an oiled piece of clingfilm and left to prove again for half an hour. We were told not to tuck the clingfilm under the bowl as it prevents the dough from expanding because it is trapped. After the dough had proved for a further half an hour, the clingfilm was removed, any last minute slashes or cuts in the surface were made before they were placed in an oven preheated to 220°C and some water quickly poured in the basetray of the oven. Once the door was closed the temperature was lowered to 200°C. 

The rolls took about 25 minutes to cook, by which time they were a beautiful golden brown and sounded light and hollow when tapped on the bottom.

Sadly, bread rolls need to rest once they have come out of the oven, or the dough will be compacted by eating and won't taste or feel as it should. Once they'd waited a little while, we had them with our lunch, and they were lovely.


My dough babies, all grown up! Proud Mummy!


 Next, we were on to omelettes. We had already been told that we would be making classical omelettes, without any colour, and this both baffled and terrified me. Omelettes in my book were big, set things which went into the oven to melt the cheese on top. The underside was a dark golden, often crispy thing, and the whole lot was wicked with ketchup.

Turns out I've been doing it wrong my whole life.

So, an omelette pan is about the size of a side plate, shaped like a shallow bowl, and the ones we used were ceramic as they retain heat so well. We got the pans reasonably hot before melting small lumps of butter - one one great dollop that melts at different stages but small lumps. Once they've calmed their sizzle it's time to pour in three beaten, seasoned eggs - perhaps not the whole lot as the pan is quite small. Unless, like me, you forget that and throw the whole lot in. Brain smaller than belly. Leave the eggs to set for about 10 seconds before giving them a good stir around, pulling the edges towards the centre of the pan and letting it set again. Then - get this - we took the pan off the heat. On top of this we put strong grated cheddar, concassse tomato (blanched, deskinned, deseeded and cubed), paysanne spring onions (thinly sliced) and chiffonaded parsley (finely chopped). All we needed to do now was dress some salad and turn the omelette onto a plate. Scary stuff. Only it's not! Using a palette knife, we folded it over away from ourselves towards the edge of the pan opposite the handle - this is where using too much egg mixture creates a problem as the extra thickness makes it tricky to fold. Holding the plate right against the pan, both tipped to make a V-shape, the omelette can then be flipped onto the plate.

Yummy! I can confirm that this was the loveliest omelette what I ever made. Not as pale as Rob's by far, but not bad for a first proper try.

Then we went back into the kitchen to finish dessert. We topped our chocolate pots, which had now set, with a quenelle of vanilla chantilly cream - Rob had whipped the cream and showed us how to make a nice shaped dollop of it by transferring it from one warm, wet spoon to another a few times to create a nice curve. Then this was topped with our decorations from earlier and ta-da!!
Nom nom indeed!

I can confirm these tasted excellent with jam and clotted cream.
You're welcome.
After lunch we got on to making scones. We used self raising flour and baking soda, rubbed with butter before adding caster sugar and lemon juice (the acidity helps to activate the raising agents) followed by milk. Everything needs to be cold, with a minimum of handling, so the mixture was brought together with a butter knife being cut through it repeatedly. The dough then gets gently patted out on a floured surface to about 4cm thick before using a floured 5cm cutter to quickly cut and lift the scones - no twisting of the cutter as this compacts the dough. The more the leftover dough is reformed and re-cut, the less it will rise in the oven, so this can only be done about twice. The tops of the scones were egg-washed and they went into the oven for about 9 minutes until golden brown and well risen.

(L-R) Julienne, Brunoise, Paysanne, Macedoine and Jardiniere
 To finish the day we practised our vegetable cuts again to see if we could remember what was what. Mine weren't bad but I need to take a bit more time making sure the cuts are all uniform - particularly for larger cuts that will be used as a decoration. But I have time and will, I'm sure get lots of practise in over the next five weeks!

On Monday we start making food to take home as dinner, so the other half is a happy boy right now. I'll be tackling chicken butchery, risotto and shortcrust pastry, so check back on Monday evening to see how it goes!

For now, I'm off to quality check another of my scones. Just as well I'm getting back into my running while I'm here!

Thursday, 6 March 2014

Testing times

The focus of today was completing the exam for our Level Three in Food Safety for Supervisors. I won't find out how I got on until the end of next week, but I'm hopeful, after getting a good result in the mock test. The wonderful Helen Savin from Dart Valley Training has been brilliant for the last few days making sure we felt ready and knowledgable for our test.

Lunch today was Coq au Vin made by one of the chef tutors and I am looking forward to giving this a go myself, which according to the schedule is due on Tuesday. 

On the menu tomorrow will be bread rolls, stocks, and scones. I am intrigued and filled with trepidation after Rob told us on Monday we would be learning 'how to make omelettes classically, as in, without any colour' tomorrow and am already picturing scenes reminiscent of Saturday Kitchen's challenge. However, it has to be said that I am most excited of all about the chocolate pots, and chocolate run outs we will be making, not least of which is because they then disappear from the schedule, and aren't mentioned as something for lunch (like the omelette) or something to take home (like the scones). I'm guessing (hoping!) this is because I will inhale it as soon as it's finished. 

I'll let you know for sure tomorrow! That's all for this evening folks, I'm off to bid my painted nails adieu once again and get myself ready for what looks like a wonderful day! 

Wednesday, 5 March 2014

Unexpected uses for UV lighting

Today was day two of the Food Safety Level Three course.

We started the day giving presentations on one bacteria / virus each. Mine was Bacillus Cereus, which, as everybody knows, is a soil-dwelling, mesophilic, obligate aerobe spore-forming bacteria which produces a heat-resistant exotoxin.

In other words, be very careful about rice at that chinese buffet.

As a result of today's information, we have now become a group of formerly relaxed and intelligent individuals who can no longer eat oysters, pet animals, have ice in our drinks, eat anything without an 'organoleptic check' first ('having a sniff' to you or I), and who can now be most frequently found disinfecting light switches and singing Happy Birthday while we wash our hands. Twice.

We also learnt about temperature checks, how Heinz prevents baked bean botulism, why Edwina Curry did what she did and the difference between detergent, disinfectant and sanitiser.

Geeky but true - the highlight of my day was when we got to use a 'bacteria simulator' on our hands and wash them as best we could before putting them under UV light to see areas we had missed. When I did my Level Two course we didn't have this kit so I was a bit overexcited to get a chance to use it today.

For lunch today we had the vegetable broth we made on Monday.
Unlike yesterday's vichysoisse, we won't be examine on the making of this soup, it was just used as an intensive way to get us all to practise different knife cuts on a variety of vegetables. But it sure tasted good for being such a labour of love!

That's all for now, I have my Food Safety exam tomorrow so I'm off to revise - wish me luck!


Tuesday, 4 March 2014

Microbes and spoilage and mould, oh my!

Today was day one of the Food Safety level three course. Most of what was covered today was a refresher for me, as I hold the level two already. What was fun, however, was having everyone share their stories of hygiene horrors, allergy emergencies and mould mishaps. Tomorrow we start the day by presenting on a bacteria each and I'm genuinely looking forward to waxing lyrical about Bacillum Cereus. Who'd wouldn't?!

At lunch time we had the vichyssoise soup we'd made yesterday, finished for us by the tutors
with a touch of cream, chopped chives and a drizzle of truffle oil. My compliments to the chef!

This evening pancake day was celebrated in style when I made two pancake batters - one buckwheat and one plain, the former for savoury pancakes and the latter for sweet. My personal favourites were a goats cheese, caramelised onion and roasted tomato pancake and a salted dark chocolate and banana pancake. Why can't it be pancake day more often?

With all the food I'll be needing to cook in the next six weeks, it will be nigh on impossible to give anything up and still learn about it, so all suggestions are welcome!

Until tomorrow...

Monday, 3 March 2014

Terms of Endearment

So, today was possibly the first day of the rest of my life.

I am very glad to have been reassured, so far, that my choice to undertake a cookery course at Ashburton Chefs Academy seems to have been the right one. 

Day one involved an outline of the course itself, which looks like it will be very intense. The focus of the first week will be working towards our Level Three food hygiene qualification. We also got kitted out in chef whites, had our mugshot taken and got to know each other, our favourite chefs and why we've all chosen the course. Today we were tutored by two truly inspirational chefs. Leading us was Rob Spencer, who has been sous chef at l'Ortolan, worked with Gary Rhodes and was Head Chef at John Burton-Race's Michelin-starred New Angel in Dartmouth. Assisting him was Colin Bennet, a talented pastry chef with a career including Head Pastry Chef positions at The Waldorf Hilton,  Nuno Mendes' Viajante and Jamie Oliver's  Barbecoa. 

My eight fellow coursemates have a variety of different backgrounds and aspirations, from working on private yachts, to fulfilling a lifelong dream to enrich a passion, to people like me who aren't too sure what's coming up next. 

After being shown around our home for the next six weeks, we were let loose in the training kitchen. These have a number of stations decked out with all the necessary equipment, super-fast induction hobs and ovens too complicated for us to use on day one. I've always been wary of induction hobs, but am becoming a convert after just one day of being shown how quickly they work, how precisely they can regulate temperature and how accurately they can be controlled. 
Taken from
http://chasingdelicious.com/kitchen-101-knives-basic-cuts/

Today's core skill set was vegetable preparation and cutting. Although it was already vaguely familiar, it was good to establish that baton is to macedoine as julienne is to brunoise, that you can chiffonnade a leek but not a tomato, which you can concasse but not paysanne. Nobody was hurt in the making of day one.

We made a vichysoisse, a leek and potato soup, by softening finely chopped onion (brunoise), finely slicing a leek split in half (chiffonade), adding smallish cubes (macedoine cut) of potato and cooking in vegetable stock made on site before blending. Then we made a vegetable broth to practise and demonstrate various chopping skills of shallot, knife-puréed garlic, carrot, fennel, celery (always peel it, people!)leek, cored, blanched and peeled tomato, and chives. We made our own bouquet garni with herbs wrapped in a layer of leek and we added cooked pearl barley. These two soups will be our lunch for the next two days, so if it all goes quiet on this blog you will know that I only have myself to blame!

Tomorrow will be day one of our food hygiene course, but it will also be PANCAKE DAY! So either way, there will be good stuff to check back here and read up on!  

Sunday, 2 March 2014

When one door opens...

Friday, 28th February 2014 was officially my last day managing the cafe after the decision was made by the business to close it down. The end of an era and the finish line of a fantastic journey. Although this was incredibly sad, I am so grateful for lessons I've learnt and friends I've made along the way.

This post was going to detail some of what is involved when a small food business needs to close. What happens with stock, suppliers, finances, equipment... but this is now another post for another day. When I learnt that my role had definitively come to a close, I did what I do best, and acted fast to keep myself learning and moving forward.

And I booked myself onto a professional cookery course.

That makes it all sound very easy, and it wasn't. I had been contemplating this as a possibility for some time, and deliberated carefully over what course to do, where to do it and why I should do it. None of this is helped by a rather sizeable degree of uncertainty over what I want my future career to look like. I know that I love food, that I delight in enthusing others about it too, and that I am probably not headed towards opening my own restaurant. I also feel that my experience in food could do with being underpinned by some solid qualifications.

After considering various big-name cookery schools as well as adult learning options, wondering about balancing between time and financial investment and return, I decided to book myself onto the six-week Professional Culinary Certificate at the Ashburton Chefs Academy. This happens to be a half hour drive from where my other half lives, which in itself is rather handy.

So, all paid up, signed up and with forms detailing what size chef whites I will need, the course starts tomorrow. I am a walking cocktail of excitement, trepidation, exhaustion and back-to-school nerves. My plan is to blog about my course every day, so keep an eye on my progress right here!

Sunday, 19 January 2014

Waste not, want not!

Once the festivities of December have come to an end, with its giving of gifts, spectacular feasts, and time with loved ones, thoughts often turn to restraint. January is a time when we are most likely to tighten our belts – both financially after the impact of the most expensive time of year, and in terms of our health, when we cut back on things we enjoy but which we know, in excess, can cause us harm. In this way, the start of the year is a great time to make sure that we take responsibility - for the costs of our lifestyles, for the need to look after our planet and recycle all that packaging and paper so prevalent in December, for our own wellbeing, and to consider those who are less fortunate, who have a less stable support network than we may have ourselves.


Much has been reported recently of the growing issue of food poverty in this country, reported to affect four million people. The Trussell Trust, which is the largest operator of food banks in the UK, reported a three-fold increase in the number of people it distributed food to between April and September 2013 compared to the same period in 2012[1]. The Red Cross started sending volunteers to supermarkets at the end of November to help collect food donations from shoppers to distribute to foodbanks in association with the charity Fareshare[2]. The UK’s first social supermarket, selling products deemed unfit for sale due to having damaged packaging or being the wrong shape or weight, opened in December in Goldthorpe, a former mining town classed as an area of high social deprivation. A petition declaring food poverty levels in the UK as a public health emergency has now been delivered to Parliament demanding the issue is officially addressed by the government.  And yet we throw away 7 million tonnes of food and drink from our homes in the UK every year, more than half of which could have been eaten[3].


Fantastic ingredients donated for a FoodCycle session
in December - we had to google salsify!
I have recently become a volunteer Hub Leader at my local FoodCycle in the hope that I can do my bit to address these issues. FoodCycle is a national charity that aims to turn food surplus into healthy, free three-course, restaurant-style meals, thus reducing waste and also providing a way to build communities and feed those who may struggle to feed themselves. There are seventeen FoodCycle Hubs in the UK, all run by teams of local volunteers such as myself donating their time, working with food donated from local supermarkets including Sainsbury's, using facilities in ‘donated’ cooking spaces like local community centres. We don’t use meat or fish, meaning the food risks are low, and welcomed financial donations from within the community help keep us equipped with any kitchen tools and extra ingredients we may need. Every week is like a mass-scale production of ‘Ready Steady Cook’ as we have little to no idea of what ingredients we will have available and with volunteers changing every week, it is a challenge to balance the cooking skills of the kitchen staff with the commitments of delivering a tasty restaurant-style meal to an unknown number of diners! The volunteers take it in turns to eat as well, allowing us to get to know our guests and engage with the community.

By the end of the session there will inevitably be some ‘surplus surplus’, ingredients we had too little of to use or that didn’t fit in with our menu, and we do our best to ensure even these are put to good use by providing a takeaway service. Having worked in both a supermarket and a number of eateries myself I am only too aware of how much wastage goes on in both ends of the food industry and every time I volunteer at my local Hub I go home exhausted but elated to have done my very small bit for the universe. You can, too by signing up here.



You may have noticed, as did so many people (myself included) that you had food that didn’t get eaten over the Christmas period, despite all good intentions. Here are a few tips to help you control your waste this month, and to lessen that inevitability for next year.

  • Buy wisely

Original picture can be found here
We’ve all been there. The biggest local supermarket on Christmas eve was a sea of furrowed brows, discarded shopping lists written on card envelopes fluttering in the bottom of trolleys and tired parents wishing they’d done it online. Breathe. It’s January now, those dark days are over. Never go food shopping when you are hungry, as you will buy more than you need. And bear in mind the lovefoodhatewaste portion calculator. For example, it recommended 8 brussel sprouts, 80g carrots, 5 small roast potatoes and 140g turkey per person for Christmas dinner. This comes in pretty close to the portions for the ‘perfect Christmas dinner’ revealed by food psychologists Dr David Lewis and Dr Margaret Yufera-Leitch to leave you satisfied but not stuffed. How many of you had leftover sprouts after Christmas dinner, leaving you with the dilemma of choosing between food waste and extra ‘ammunition’ for someone’s digestive system the next day?

  • Stock up
Many of the big supermarkets are giving advice on leftovers right now. Once your roast meat has done its Sunday lunch duty, remove all the meat you can from the carcass and set it aside. This can be used for the next two days for a delicious curry, pasta dish or pie. Otherwise, portion up cold leftover meat and freeze it in clearly marked airtight bags for up to three months[4]. Defrost thoroughly before use. The meat bones can then be boiled up with a roughly chopped onion, carrot and celery stick, a bay leaf or two and a few whole peppercorns to make a stock you can strain and use or cool and freeze for soup.

  • And freeze!

The freezer can be a wonderful friend for many leftover ingredients. Eggs nearing their ‘Use By’ date? Raw eggs can be beaten and frozen for up to three months. Clingfilm butter and freeze it for cake day for up to six. I find well-wrapped sliced bread toasts better as the inside of the slice dries out less in the toaster. And of course, leftover herbs can be chopped and popped into icecube trays for when you need them. 

  • Get rotten 

If you don’t already have one, this may be the time to set up a compost heap. Try to ensure that food that really can’t be used any other way is at least composted where possible. This excludes bread, meat, fish and dairy. Compost does wonders for your garden (where you could also try growing your own herbs and vegetables in pots), but if you don’t or can’t have your own heap, it is likely that your local community garden will do and they may welcome your compostable waste. My local FoodCycle uses herbs and vegetables from our local community garden, who accepts and composts our food waste after sessions and this makes our community links even stronger.



These tips for resourcefulness should help anyone, whether you have too much food or not enough. At Christmas and in January, it is more striking than usual that while there seems to be more than enough food to go round, many still go hungry. So if you’re lucky enough not to be part of the reason that food poverty is being put to debate, at least make sure you’re not part of the reason so much food goes to landfill.